Insulation Calculator
Calculate insulation for attics and walls. Enter values for instant results with step-by-step formulas.
Formula
Bags = Area / Coverage per Bag (at target R-value)
Calculate square footage, determine target R-value for climate, and divide by bag coverage at that R-value (coverage decreases as target R-value increases).
Worked Examples
Example 1: Attic Insulation to R-49
Problem: 1,000 sq ft attic, blown fiberglass insulation to R-49 target.
Solution: R-49 blown fiberglass:\nCoverage per bag: ~65 sq ft (settles to R-49)\n\nBags needed:\n1,000 ÷ 65 = 15.4 bags → buy 16 bags\n\nDepth needed: ~16-18 inches\n\nCost:\n16 bags × $35 = $560\nBlower rental: $75 (or free)\nTotal: ~$635 DIY
Result: 16 bags blown fiberglass | $635 | 16-18 inch depth
Example 2: Wall Batt Insulation
Problem: 400 sq ft wall, 2×4 studs, R-13 fiberglass batts.
Solution: R-13 batts for 2×4 walls:\nCoverage: 40 sq ft per bag\n\nBags needed:\n400 ÷ 40 = 10 bags\n\nThickness: 3.5 inches (fills 2×4 cavity)\n\nCost:\n10 bags × $25 = $250
Result: 10 bags R-13 batts | $250
Example 3: Attic Topper
Problem: Existing R-19 attic, add blown-in to reach R-49, 800 sq ft area.
Solution: Current: R-19\nNeed to add: R-30\n\nBlown fiberglass at R-30:\nCoverage: ~100 sq ft per bag\n\n800 sq ft ÷ 100 = 8 bags\n\nAdd depth: ~10 inches over existing\n\nCost: 8 × $35 = $280\nPlus blower rental: $75\nTotal: ~$355
Result: 8 bags to add | ~$355 | Adds 10 inches
Frequently Asked Questions
What R-value insulation do I need for my climate?
Department of Energy climate zones: Zone 1 (Southern FL, HI): R-30 attic, R-13 walls, R-0 floors. Zone 2 (Deep South): R-30 attic, R-13 walls, R-13 floors. Zone 3 (South): R-30-38 attic, R-13-15 walls, R-19 floors. Zone 4 (Mid-Atlantic, Pacific NW): R-38-49 attic, R-13-15 walls, R-25 floors. Zone 5 (Northern states): R-49 attic, R-20 walls, R-30 floors. Zone 6 (Northern tier): R-49-60 attic, R-20-21 walls, R-30 floors. Zone 7-8 (Alaska, northern Canada): R-60 attic, R-21 walls, R-30 floors. Check energy.gov for zip code zone. Higher R-value = better insulation = lower energy bills. Attic most important (heat rises). Minimum code requirements vary by state - often below DOE recommendations. Meet or exceed DOE for best energy savings.
What type of insulation is best for different applications?
Batts/blankets (fiberglass): Best for open wall/ceiling cavities between studs, DIY-friendly, $0.50-1.00 per sq ft. R-13 for 2×4 walls, R-19-21 for 2×6 walls. Blown-in fiberglass/cellulose: Best for attics, existing walls (dense-pack), irregular spaces, $1-2 per sq ft. Easy to fill completely, R-30 to R-60 depending on depth. Spray foam: Best air sealing, highest R-value per inch (R-6-7), moisture barrier, $2-4 per sq ft, professional install only. Open-cell (cheaper) vs closed-cell (better R-value, moisture barrier). Rigid foam boards: Best for exterior sheathing, basement walls, $0.75-2.00 per sq ft, R-5-6 per inch. Good for continuous insulation. Reflective/radiant barrier: Best for attics in hot climates, reflects heat, minimal R-value. Choose based on: Application (wall vs attic), budget, DIY vs professional, moisture concerns, air sealing needs.
How much insulation do I need for my attic?
Calculate attic floor area (length × width). For R-38 target: Fiberglass batts: 2 layers R-19 (12-14 inches total), ~2 bags per 100 sq ft = 1,000 sq ft attic needs 20 bags. Blown-in fiberglass: 10-14 inches depth for R-38, coverage ~65-70 sq ft per bag at R-38 = 1,000 sq ft needs 14-15 bags. Blown-in cellulose: 10-12 inches for R-38, ~50-60 sq ft per bag = 17-20 bags. For R-49 target: Blown fiberglass: 16-20 inches depth, ~50-60 sq ft per bag = 17-20 bags. Spray foam: 8-9 inches closed-cell for R-49, professional install. Check bag label: Coverage varies by target R-value (same bag covers more square feet at lower R-value). Never compress insulation: Compressing reduces R-value significantly. Ventilation must remain clear: Don't block soffit vents, ridge vent, gable vents. Use baffles to maintain airflow.
Can I add insulation over existing insulation?
Yes - adding insulation increases total R-value (R-values are additive). Adding over old: Remove only if old insulation damaged, wet, moldy, or has pests. Otherwise, add over existing. For attics: New blown-in over old batts works great (perpendicular orientation is ideal). New batts over old batts: Perpendicular orientation, don't compress lower layer. For walls: Difficult to add without removing drywall. Dense-pack cellulose through small holes possible (professional). Spray foam in wall cavities (professional). Code requirements: Some jurisdictions require inspection/testing before adding. Moisture considerations: Ensure no vapor barrier sandwiching moisture (double vapor barrier = trapped moisture = rot). Exception: Don't add over: Vermiculite insulation (may contain asbestos - test first, professional removal), wet/damaged insulation (must remove first), recessed lighting without IC rating (must box out first).
How do I calculate bags of blown-in insulation?
Bag coverage varies by target R-value. Manufacturer chart on bag lists coverage. Example: Owens Corning ProCat Insulation: R-30: 107 sq ft per bag. R-38: 86 sq ft per bag. R-49: 66 sq ft per bag. R-60: 55 sq ft per bag. Same bag, different R-value = different coverage (higher R = deeper insulation = less area covered). For 1,000 sq ft attic at R-49: 1,000 ÷ 66 = 15.15 bags → buy 16 bags. At R-60: 1,000 ÷ 55 = 18.2 → buy 19 bags. Always check specific product bag label - formulas vary by brand, product line, and fiber type. Rental blower from big box stores: Free with minimum bag purchase (usually 10-12 bags). Settling factor: Blown insulation settles 10-15% over first year - coverage accounts for this.
Do I need a vapor barrier with insulation?
Depends on climate and assembly. Cold climates (zones 5-8): Vapor barrier on warm side (interior) prevents moisture from warm indoor air condensing in cold wall cavity. Use: Kraft-faced batts (paper facing is vapor retarder), 6-mil polyethylene sheeting (true vapor barrier), vapor retarder paint on drywall. Hot-humid climates (zones 1-2): May not need vapor barrier or install on exterior side (moisture drives inward from hot exterior). Mixed climates (zones 3-4): Often no vapor barrier or use \"smart\" vapor retarders (adjust permeability). Spray foam: Acts as its own vapor barrier (closed-cell, not open-cell). Never: Double vapor barrier (on both sides) - traps moisture with no escape path, causes rot. Always: Check local code - requirements vary by jurisdiction and are climate-specific. Air sealing more important: Seal gaps, cracks before insulating - air leaks carry 10-40× more moisture than vapor diffusion.