Kitchen Cabinet Cost Calculator
Calculate the cost of new kitchen cabinets from linear feet, style, and material. Enter values for instant results with step-by-step formulas.
Reviewed for accuracy by Daniel Agrici, Founder & Lead Developer
Kitchen Cabinet Cost Calculator
Calculator
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Formula: Total = (Linear Feet × Material Cost × Style × Door) + Hardware + Install + Countertop
Worked example — Estimated total: $11,840 | Range: $9,000-$16,000 | ~16 cabinets
Formula
Total = (Linear Feet × Material Cost × Style × Door) + Hardware + Install + Countertop
Cabinet cost is calculated per linear foot based on material grade, then adjusted by style and door type multipliers. Hardware, professional installation, and optional countertops are added. Upper cabinets add approximately 60% to the cabinet cost.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Mid-Range Kitchen Renovation
Problem:20 linear feet, shaker style, plywood construction, solid doors, with granite countertops and professional installation. Include upper cabinets.
Solution:Cabinets: 20 ft × $220/ft × 1.0 (shaker) × 1.0 (solid) × 1.6 (uppers) = $7,040 Hardware: 20 ft × $50 = $1,000 Installation: 20 ft × $75 = $1,500 Granite countertops: 20 ft × $115 = $2,300 Total estimate: $11,840
Result:Estimated total: $11,840 | Range: $9,000-$16,000 | ~16 cabinets
Example 2: Budget-Friendly Update
Problem:15 linear feet, flat/slab style, MDF construction, thermofoil doors, laminate countertops, DIY installation, with upper cabinets.
Solution:Cabinets: 15 ft × $150/ft × 0.85 (flat) × 0.75 (thermofoil) × 1.6 (uppers) = $2,295 Hardware: 15 ft × $30 = $450 Installation: DIY = $0 Laminate countertops: 15 ft × $35 = $525 Total estimate: $3,270
Result:Estimated total: $3,270 | Range: $2,000-$5,000 | ~12 cabinets
Frequently Asked Questions
How much do kitchen cabinets cost on average?
Kitchen cabinet costs vary widely based on material, style, and size. For a standard 20 linear-foot kitchen, stock cabinets from particleboard or MDF range from $2,000-$5,000. Semi-custom plywood cabinets typically cost $4,000-$12,000. Custom hardwood cabinets can range from $10,000-$25,000 or more. These prices are for the cabinets alone. Installation adds $1,500-$3,000 for professional work. When budgeting, also account for hardware ($500-$1,500), countertops ($1,000-$5,000), and potential modifications to plumbing or electrical. The national average for a complete cabinet replacement project is about $6,000-$15,000 for a mid-range kitchen, though high-end custom projects in major metro areas can exceed $30,000.
What is the difference between stock, semi-custom, and custom cabinets?
Stock cabinets are mass-produced in standard sizes (typically 3-inch increments) and come in limited style and color options. They are the most affordable, costing $60-$200 per linear foot, and are available for immediate pickup or fast delivery. Semi-custom cabinets offer more style, finish, and size options than stock. They are built to order with modifications like adjusted depths, special storage inserts, and unique finishes, costing $150-$400 per linear foot with 4-8 week lead times. Custom cabinets are built entirely to your specifications from scratch. Every dimension, material, finish, and feature is tailored to your kitchen layout and design preferences. They cost $400-$1,200+ per linear foot and typically take 8-16 weeks. Custom cabinets are ideal for unusual kitchen layouts or specific design visions.
What cabinet material is best for durability and value?
Plywood is widely considered the best balance of durability and value for cabinet boxes (the structural frame). It resists moisture better than particleboard or MDF, holds screws firmly, and does not swell or warp easily. For cabinet doors, solid hardwood (maple, oak, cherry, or birch) provides the best long-term durability and can be refinished multiple times over decades. MDF doors with thermofoil or paint finish offer a smooth, affordable alternative but cannot be refinished and may peel over time in humid environments. Particleboard is the cheapest option but is susceptible to moisture damage and has a shorter lifespan. For a cost-effective approach, many homeowners choose plywood boxes with solid wood or high-quality MDF doors, providing a premium look without full custom pricing.
Should I reface or replace my kitchen cabinets?
Refacing costs about 30-50% less than full replacement and is ideal when your cabinet boxes are structurally sound but the doors and finish look dated. Refacing involves applying new veneer to the cabinet frames and replacing doors and drawer fronts while keeping the existing boxes and layout. It typically costs $3,000-$10,000 for a standard kitchen and can be completed in 3-5 days. However, replacement is better when cabinets are damaged, have poor layout, or you want to change the kitchen configuration. If your cabinets are over 20 years old, have water damage, or use particleboard that is swelling, replacement is the smarter investment. Also consider that refacing does not change cabinet sizes or add features like soft-close hinges, pull-out shelves, or better organizers unless you add them separately.
How do I measure linear feet for kitchen cabinets?
Linear feet is measured by running a tape measure along the walls where cabinets will be installed, measuring the total length of countertop and cabinet run. Measure each wall section separately and add them together. Include only the areas where cabinets will actually go, not doorways, windows, or appliance gaps (though the space above a range typically has a hood or short cabinet). A typical small kitchen has 10-15 linear feet of cabinets, a standard kitchen has 20-25 linear feet, and a large or L-shaped kitchen may have 25-35 linear feet. When measuring for upper cabinets, measure the same walls but subtract spaces above sinks and ranges where full-height uppers may not fit. Most cabinet companies offer free in-home measurements.
Do I need upper cabinets, and how much do they add to the cost?
Kitchen Cabinet Cost Calculator applies a 1.6x multiplier to your base cabinet cost when upper cabinets are included, reflecting that a full kitchen typically needs roughly as much upper cabinet run as base cabinet run, plus the added crown or light-rail trim that finishes uppers at the ceiling line. Skipping uppers is common in modern kitchens that use open shelving or a full-height pantry wall instead, or in galley kitchens where one wall is windows. If you're mixing approaches — uppers on one wall, open shelving on another — measure only the wall(s) that will actually get upper cabinets and run Kitchen Cabinet Cost Calculator twice to combine the totals.
Should I choose stock, semi-custom, or custom cabinets for my budget?
For a strict budget, stock cabinets in plywood construction (not particleboard, which swells with moisture) give the best durability-per-dollar and are ready in 1-2 weeks. If your kitchen has a standard rectangular or L-shaped layout with common wall lengths, semi-custom hits the sweet spot — it lets you pick finishes and minor size adjustments without paying the 2-4x custom premium. Reserve custom cabinets for kitchens with an unusual layout (angled walls, a narrow galley, built-in banquette) where stock and semi-custom sizing genuinely can't fit the space, since that's the scenario where custom's flexibility earns back its cost.
How much contingency should I budget on top of a renovation cost estimate?
Industry practice is 10-20% contingency on top of the itemized estimate, with older homes (pre-1980, especially pre-1950) warranting the higher end because of the greater chance of hidden problems once walls or floors are opened up — outdated wiring, undersized plumbing, water damage, or non-code framing. Newer homes with recent permit history can budget closer to 10%. Whatever the itemized total on a cost calculator like this one shows, treat it as the floor of your budget, not the ceiling, and don't spend the contingency unless it's actually needed.
References
Reviewed for accuracy by Daniel Agrici, Founder & Lead Developer · Editorial policy
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