Appliance Energy Use Calculator
Calculate an appliance's monthly kWh and running cost from its wattage, hours used per day, days per month, and your electricity rate.
Appliance Energy Use Calculator
Calculator
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Formula: kWh = Watts × Hours × Days / 1000 | Cost = kWh × Rate
Worked example — $21.60/month
Formula
kWh = Watts × Hours × Days / 1000 | Cost = kWh × Rate
Convert watts to kilowatt-hours by dividing by 1000 and multiplying by usage time.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Space heater
Problem:1500W, 4 hrs/day, $0.12/kWh
Solution:1500×4×30/1000 = 180 kWh × $0.12 = $21.60/mo
Result:$21.60/month
Frequently Asked Questions
What uses the most electricity at home?
Across all household fuels, space heating and cooling dominate at roughly 46 percent of US home energy, followed by water heating near 14 percent, other appliances including the washer and dryer around 13 percent, lighting near 9 percent and refrigeration about 7 percent, with electronics and miscellaneous loads making up the rest. Those shares cover gas as well as electricity, so a gas-heated home sees a very different split on its electricity bill alone, where cooling, laundry and the refrigerator move to the top. Enter each appliance's own wattage and run hours here rather than relying on the average split.
How do I find an appliance's wattage?
You can find wattage information in several places: the appliance's label or nameplate (usually on the back or bottom), the product manual, the manufacturer's website, or the original packaging. If the label shows amps instead of watts, multiply amps by voltage (120V in the US) to get watts. For example, a 5-amp appliance on 120V uses 600 watts. Smart plugs with energy monitoring (like Kasa or Emporia) can also measure actual real-world consumption.
How much does it cost to run common appliances for a year?
At the US average rate of about $0.16 per kWh, approximate annual costs are: central air conditioner (3,000W, 8 hr/day, 90 days) about $346, electric water heater (4,000W, 3 hr/day) about $700, refrigerator (150W continuous) about $210, clothes dryer (5,000W, 1 hr/day) about $292, LED light bulb (10W, 5 hr/day) about $3, and laptop charger (65W, 8 hr/day) about $30. Replacing old appliances with ENERGY STAR models can reduce these costs by 20-50%.
What is standby power or phantom load?
Standby power, also called phantom load or vampire power, is the electricity consumed by appliances when they are turned off but still plugged in. TVs, gaming consoles, cable boxes, microwaves with clocks, phone chargers, and smart home devices all draw standby power. Individually these draws are small, but they run every hour of the year, so the arithmetic is worth doing rather than guessing: a device idling at 3 W uses 3 × 24 × 365 / 1,000 ≈ 26 kWh a year, which at 16 cents per kWh is a little over $4. Enter the standby wattage and 24 hours per day above to price any single device. How much a whole household stands to save depends entirely on how many always-on devices it has and how idle each one really is, so the reliable way to size it is to meter the suspects with a plug-in energy monitor over a few days rather than to apply a headline percentage. Smart power strips, scheduled smart plugs and switching off at the wall all remove the draw at source; note that some devices, such as DVRs and networked equipment, lose function or need a long resync when fully powered down.
What is the difference between a watt, a kilowatt and a kilowatt-hour?
A watt measures power, the instantaneous rate at which energy is converted, and a kilowatt is simply 1,000 watts. A kilowatt-hour measures energy: one kilowatt sustained for one hour, equal to 3.6 megajoules. Utilities bill for energy, not power, which is why this formula divides nameplate watts by 1,000 and multiplies by run hours. A 1,500 W space heater running two hours consumes 3 kWh.
What is duty cycle, and why does nameplate wattage overstate a refrigerator's consumption?
Duty cycle is the fraction of time a thermostatically controlled appliance actually draws current. A refrigerator's compressor switches on only when the cabinet warms past its setpoint, so a unit labelled 150 W pulls that draw for part of each hour and almost nothing in between. For cycling loads such as fridges, freezers, air conditioners and well pumps, enter effective compressor run hours per day rather than 24.
Which electricity rate should I enter if my bill separates supply and delivery charges?
Use an all-in effective rate rather than the supply rate alone: add the per-kWh generation or supply charge to the per-kWh delivery and transmission items, or divide total variable charges by the kilowatt-hours billed. Delivery can rival the supply component on a residential bill, so entering supply only understates running cost. Leave out fixed monthly customer fees, since those do not change with how long the appliance runs.
What is the difference between rated wattage and startup surge wattage?
Rated or running wattage is the steady draw an appliance settles into once it is up to speed. Surge wattage is the brief inrush an induction motor or compressor pulls while accelerating, often several times the rated figure for a fraction of a second. Surge governs generator, inverter and breaker sizing, but contributes almost nothing to energy use because it lasts so briefly. Enter rated wattage here, not surge.
How do I compare the running cost of an electric appliance against a gas one?
Convert both to a common energy unit. One therm of natural gas is 100,000 BTU, about 29.3 kWh of energy content, so gas at $1.50 per therm works out near 5.1 cents per kWh of input. Then adjust for conversion efficiency: a gas furnace or water heater turns roughly 60 to 95 percent of that input into useful heat, while electric resistance heating converts essentially all of it.
Why does a heat pump deliver more heat per kilowatt-hour than an electric space heater?
Electric resistance heating turns one kWh of electricity into one kWh of heat, a coefficient of performance of 1. A heat pump instead spends that electricity moving heat from outdoor air or the ground into the house, delivering a multiple of the input. Seasonal COP commonly falls somewhere between about 2 and 4 and declines as outdoor temperature drops, so the same wattage entered here buys substantially more heating.
References
Background & Theory
History
Reviewed for accuracy by Daniel Agrici, Founder & Lead Developer · Editorial policy
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