Exposure Triangle Calculator
Calculate correct exposure settings balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Enter values for instant results with step-by-step formulas.
Reviewed for accuracy by Daniel Agrici, Founder & Lead Developer
Exposure Triangle Calculator
Calculator
Adjust values & calculateEnter your values below. Every result is computed in your browser โ no data is sent to any server.
Formula: EV = log2(f-number^2 / shutter speed) - log2(ISO / 100)
Worked example โ New settings: f/2.8, 1/500s, ISO 100 (equivalent exposure)
Formula
EV = log2(f-number^2 / shutter speed) - log2(ISO / 100)
Exposure Value (EV) is calculated from the f-number (aperture), shutter speed in seconds, and ISO sensitivity. Equivalent exposures have the same EV value. Changing one parameter by one stop requires compensating with another parameter by one stop in the opposite direction.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Portrait: Switching from Sharp to Blurry Background
Problem:Current settings: f/5.6, 1/125s, ISO 100. You want to shoot at f/2.8 for background blur. What shutter speed is needed?
Solution:Aperture change: f/5.6 to f/2.8 = +2 stops of light To compensate, increase shutter speed by 2 stops 1/125s + 2 stops = 1/500s Calculation: new SS = (2.8^2 x (1/125) x 100) / (5.6^2 x 100) = (7.84 x 0.008) / 31.36 = 0.002 = 1/500s
Result:New settings: f/2.8, 1/500s, ISO 100 (equivalent exposure)
Example 2: Indoor Event: Compensating for Low Light
Problem:Current settings: f/4, 1/125s, ISO 100. Image is 3 stops underexposed. What ISO is needed to keep the same aperture and shutter speed?
Solution:Need 3 stops more light via ISO ISO 100 + 1 stop = ISO 200 ISO 200 + 1 stop = ISO 400 ISO 400 + 1 stop = ISO 800 Each doubling of ISO adds one stop of sensitivity
Result:New settings: f/4, 1/125s, ISO 800 (3 stops brighter)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the exposure triangle in photography?
The exposure triangle is a fundamental photography concept describing the relationship between three camera settings that control how much light reaches the sensor: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These three elements work together to determine the overall exposure (brightness) of an image. Changing one setting requires compensating with one or both of the others to maintain the same exposure level. For example, opening the aperture by one stop lets in twice as much light, which can be compensated by doubling the shutter speed or halving the ISO. Mastering this triangle is essential for creative control over depth of field, motion blur, and image noise.
How does aperture affect exposure and depth of field?
Aperture is the size of the lens opening, measured in f-stops (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/5.6, etc.). A lower f-number means a wider opening that lets in more light and produces a shallower depth of field (blurry background). A higher f-number means a narrower opening with less light but greater depth of field (more of the scene in focus). Each full f-stop change doubles or halves the light. The common full-stop aperture sequence is f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16. Portrait photographers typically use wide apertures (f/1.4 to f/2.8) for background blur, while landscape photographers use narrow apertures (f/8 to f/16) for front-to-back sharpness.
What is the relationship between shutter speed and motion blur?
Shutter speed determines how long the camera sensor is exposed to light, directly affecting motion blur in images. Faster shutter speeds (1/500s, 1/1000s) freeze motion and are ideal for sports and action photography. Slower shutter speeds (1/30s, 1/15s, and longer) allow motion blur, creating effects like smooth water or light trails. The general rule for handheld shooting without blur is to use a shutter speed at least as fast as 1/focal length (for example, 1/200s with a 200mm lens). Image stabilization in modern cameras and lenses can allow 3-5 stops slower than this rule. Intentional motion blur requires a tripod and neutral density filters in bright conditions.
How does ISO affect image quality and when should I increase it?
ISO controls the sensor sensitivity to light. Lower ISO values (100-400) produce cleaner images with less noise and greater dynamic range. Higher ISO values (1600-6400+) amplify the signal but also amplify electronic noise, resulting in grainy images with reduced color accuracy. Modern cameras handle high ISO much better than older models, with many producing usable images at ISO 3200-6400. Increase ISO when you cannot achieve proper exposure through aperture and shutter speed alone, such as indoor events, night photography, or when you need both a fast shutter speed and narrow aperture. Always use the lowest ISO that allows your desired aperture and shutter speed combination.
What is an EV (Exposure Value) stop and how are stops counted?
An EV stop is a standardized unit representing a doubling or halving of the amount of light reaching the camera sensor. One stop brighter means twice the light; one stop darker means half the light. Each of the three triangle elements uses stops: aperture changes by one stop when the f-number is multiplied or divided by the square root of 2 (approximately 1.414). Shutter speed changes by one stop when doubled or halved. ISO changes by one stop when doubled or halved. Most modern cameras allow adjustments in 1/3 stop increments for finer control. Understanding stops makes it easy to compensate between settings while maintaining equivalent exposure.
What are the best exposure settings for common photography scenarios?
For portraits, use f/1.4 to f/2.8 for background blur, 1/125s or faster to avoid motion blur, and ISO 100-400. For landscapes, use f/8 to f/11 for maximum sharpness, any shutter speed with a tripod, and ISO 100. For sports and action, use the widest aperture available, 1/500s or faster, and increase ISO as needed. For night photography, use f/2.8 or wider, 15-30 seconds on a tripod, and ISO 1600-6400. For indoor events, use f/2.8 or wider, 1/60s minimum, and ISO 800-3200. These are starting points that you should adjust based on your specific conditions, creative intent, and equipment capabilities.
How do I maintain equivalent exposure when changing one setting?
Equivalent exposure means adjusting other settings to compensate when you change one, keeping the overall image brightness the same. The rule is simple: for every stop of light you add with one setting, remove one stop with another. If you open the aperture from f/8 to f/5.6 (one stop more light), compensate by changing shutter speed from 1/125s to 1/250s (one stop less light) or dropping ISO from 400 to 200. Exposure Triangle Calculator automates this process by computing the required compensation. The creative difference is that while exposure stays the same, depth of field, motion blur, and noise characteristics all change based on which settings you adjust.
What is the 500 rule for astrophotography exposure?
The 500 Rule is a guideline for astrophotography that helps determine the maximum shutter speed before stars start to trail due to Earth rotation. Divide 500 by your effective focal length to get the maximum exposure time in seconds. For example, with a 24mm lens: 500 divided by 24 equals approximately 20 seconds. With a 50mm lens: 500 divided by 50 equals 10 seconds. For crop sensor cameras, multiply the focal length by the crop factor first (typically 1.5x or 1.6x). Some photographers prefer the more conservative NPF rule or the 300 rule for sharper stars. Beyond this time limit, stars will appear as short streaks rather than sharp points of light.
How do neutral density filters relate to the exposure triangle?
Neutral density (ND) filters are darkened glass placed in front of the lens to reduce the amount of light entering the camera without affecting color. They effectively add a fourth dimension to the exposure triangle by allowing slower shutter speeds or wider apertures in bright conditions. ND filters are measured in stops: an ND8 filter blocks 3 stops of light, an ND64 blocks 6 stops, and an ND1000 blocks 10 stops. For example, if your exposure without a filter is f/8 at 1/250s and ISO 100, adding a 10-stop ND filter allows 1/250s to become approximately 4 seconds, enabling smooth water or cloud effects in daylight. Variable ND filters offer adjustable density for convenience.
Why do my photos sometimes come out too dark or too bright despite correct meter readings?
Camera light meters are calibrated to expose for middle gray (18% reflectance), which works well for average scenes but fails in high-contrast or predominantly light or dark situations. Snow scenes, white wedding dresses, and bright beaches cause underexposure because the meter tries to make them gray. Dark subjects like black cars or night scenes cause overexposure for the same reason. Use exposure compensation (+1 to +2 stops for bright subjects, -1 to -2 for dark subjects) to correct this. Alternatively, use spot metering on a mid-tone area, shoot in manual mode with a histogram check, or use the exposure lock button on a reference area before recomposing.
References
Background & Theory
History
Reviewed for accuracy by Daniel Agrici, Founder & Lead Developer ยท Editorial policy
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