Paver Calculator
Calculate pavers, gravel base, and bedding sand needed for your patio, walkway, or driveway. Complete material estimator with cost breakdown.
Paver Calculator
Calculator
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Formula: Pavers = Area (sq ft) x 144 / (Paver L x Paver W); Base = Area x Depth / 27
Worked example โ 660 pavers, 5.56 cu yd base, 0.93 cu yd sand
Formula
Pavers = Area (sq ft) x 144 / (Paver L x Paver W); Base = Area x Depth / 27
Calculate the project area in square feet. Multiply by 144 (sq in per sq ft) and divide by the paver area in square inches to get the paver count. For the gravel base, multiply the area by the base depth in feet and divide by 27 for cubic yards. Sand is calculated at a standard 1-inch bedding layer. Add 10% to all quantities for waste.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Backyard Patio Project
Problem:Calculate materials for a 20 ft x 15 ft patio using 12x6 inch pavers with a 6-inch gravel base.
Solution:Area = 20 x 15 = 300 sq ft Pavers per sq ft = 144 / (12 x 6) = 2.0 Total pavers = 300 x 2 = 600, with 10% waste = 660 Base = 300 x 0.5 / 27 = 5.56 cu yd (7.50 tons) Sand = 300 x (1/12) / 27 = 0.93 cu yd
Result:660 pavers, 5.56 cu yd base, 0.93 cu yd sand
Example 2: Garden Walkway
Problem:Calculate materials for a 30 ft x 4 ft walkway using 8x8 inch pavers with a 4-inch base.
Solution:Area = 30 x 4 = 120 sq ft Pavers per sq ft = 144 / 64 = 2.25 Total = 120 x 2.25 = 270, with waste = 297 Base = 120 x (4/12) / 27 = 1.48 cu yd
Result:297 pavers, 1.48 cu yd base, 0.37 cu yd sand
Frequently Asked Questions
How thick should the gravel base be under pavers?
For pedestrian areas like patios and walkways, a 4 to 6 inch compacted gravel base is standard. For driveways and areas with vehicle traffic, use 8 to 12 inches of compacted gravel base. The base should be crushed stone or gravel that compacts well, such as 3/4-inch minus or crusher run. Compact the base in 2-inch lifts using a plate compactor to achieve 95 percent compaction. A well-compacted base prevents settling and ensures long-term paver stability.
Do I need edge restraints for pavers?
Yes, edge restraints are essential for any paver installation. Without them, pavers along the edges will gradually shift outward, creating gaps and an uneven surface. Aluminum or plastic paver edge restraints are secured with 10-inch spikes driven into the compacted base every 12 inches. For driveways, concrete curbing provides the strongest edge restraint. Existing structures like house foundations, concrete borders, or retaining walls can also serve as natural edge restraints on one or more sides.
How much sand do I need under pavers?
The bedding sand layer under pavers should be exactly 1 inch thick after screeding and before compaction. This translates to approximately 100 pounds of sand per 10 square feet, or about 0.3 cubic yards per 100 square feet. Use coarse, sharp concrete sand (ASTM C33) rather than fine play sand or mason sand. After laying the pavers, you also need polymeric joint sand swept into the gaps, which typically requires 1 to 2 bags per 50 to 75 square feet depending on paver size and joint width.
What are the most durable pavers for a driveway?
Interlocking concrete pavers with a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi are the most durable option for driveways. Look for pavers rated ASTM C936 with a thickness of at least 2.375 inches (60 mm) for standard residential driveways, or 3.125 inches (80 mm) for heavy vehicles. Natural stone pavers like granite and bluestone also work well but cost 3 to 5 times more. Avoid thin pavers under 2 inches for any vehicular application, as they can crack under tire loads.
How do I convert base depth into cubic yards and tons of aggregate?
Multiply the project area in square feet by the base depth in feet, then divide by 27 to get cubic yards. A 300 square foot patio with a 6 inch base is 300 times 0.5, or 150 cubic feet, which is about 5.6 cubic yards. Suppliers sell crushed aggregate by weight, and dense-graded stone runs about 1.35 tons per cubic yard, the figure Paver Calculator uses, so confirm the pit's own conversion before ordering.
Why must the base be compacted in lifts rather than all at once?
A plate compactor only transmits useful energy through a limited depth, so a full base dumped in one go compacts at the surface and stays loose underneath. Placing the aggregate in lifts of 2 to 4 inches and compacting each pass in perpendicular directions produces uniform density throughout. Slightly moist material compacts far better than bone-dry stone. Skipping this is the single most common cause of a patio that settles unevenly within a season.
What is the difference between dense-graded and open-graded base?
Dense-graded aggregate, often sold as crusher run, contains a full range of particle sizes down to fines, so it locks together tightly and sheds water off its surface. It is the standard base under conventional pavers. Open-graded stone is single-sized with the fines washed out, leaving void space that stores and infiltrates water; it is used for permeable interlocking pavement, where it is paired with open-graded bedding chips rather than sand.
How much fall should a paver surface have for drainage?
Aim for a consistent slope of about one to two percent away from any structure, which is roughly an eighth to a quarter of an inch of drop per foot. Over a 12 foot patio that is one and a half to three inches of fall. The slope must be built into the compacted base and carried through the screeded bedding layer, not created by tilting individual pavers, so string lines and a level are set before any stone goes down.
When should I use polymeric joint sand instead of plain sand?
Polymeric sand contains binders that set when wetted, so the joints resist washout from rain and hose spray, discourage weeds and ants, and hold interlock on slopes or near downspouts. It demands a dry install, joints filled to the correct depth, all sand swept clear of the paver faces before watering, and the manufacturer's exact wetting sequence. Plain washed sand remains the right choice for permeable pavements and for joints narrower than the product's rated minimum.
Does a geotextile fabric under the base actually help?
Over firm, well-drained subgrade it adds little. Over soft, silty or clay subgrade it earns its cost as a separation layer, keeping the angular base stone from being pumped down into the soil and stopping fines from migrating up into the base, both of which thin the effective structure and cause settlement. Use a woven separation or stabilisation geotextile, lap the rolls generously, and carry it up the sides of the excavation.
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Reviewed for accuracy by Abdullah, Technical Content Specialist ยท Editorial policy
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