Hoop House Calculator
Calculate materials and cost for building a hoop house or high tunnel. Estimate conduit, plastic covering, and hardware needed.
Hoop House Calculator
Calculator
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Formula: Hoops = (Length / Spacing) + 1; Arc = (pi x Width) / 2; Covering = Arc x Length x 1.15
Worked example โ 13 hoops, 34 conduit pipes, 1,214 sq ft covering
Formula
Hoops = (Length / Spacing) + 1; Arc = (pi x Width) / 2; Covering = Arc x Length x 1.15
The number of hoops equals the structure length divided by spacing plus one for the end. Each hoop arc length is half the circumference of a circle with diameter equal to the hoop house width. Total covering area equals the arc length times the structure length, plus 15% for overlaps and end walls. Height equals half the width for a semicircular cross-section.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Standard Market Garden Hoop House
Problem:Calculate materials for a 48 ft x 14 ft hoop house with 4 ft hoop spacing using 6-mil poly.
Solution:Height = 14 / 2 = 7 ft Hoops = (48 / 4) + 1 = 13 hoops Arc per hoop = (3.14 x 14) / 2 = 22.0 ft Total conduit = (13 x 22) + 48 = 334 ft = 34 pipes Covering = 22 x 48 x 1.15 = 1,214 sq ft
Result:13 hoops, 34 conduit pipes, 1,214 sq ft covering
Example 2: Small Backyard Hoop House
Problem:Calculate materials for a 20 ft x 10 ft hoop house with 4 ft spacing using 4-mil poly.
Solution:Height = 10 / 2 = 5 ft Hoops = (20 / 4) + 1 = 6 hoops Arc per hoop = (3.14 x 10) / 2 = 15.7 ft Total conduit = (6 x 15.7) + 20 ft ridge purlin = 114 ft = 12 pipes of 10 ft Covering = 15.7 x 20 x 1.15 = 361 sq ft
Result:6 hoops, 12 conduit pipes, 361 sq ft covering
Frequently Asked Questions
What size conduit is best for a hoop house?
For hoop houses up to 14 feet wide, 3/4-inch EMT (electrical metallic tubing) or 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC conduit works well. For widths of 14 to 20 feet, use 1-inch EMT or 3/4-inch Schedule 40 PVC. Wider structures of 20 to 30 feet should use 1.25-inch or 1.5-inch EMT or galvanized pipe for adequate snow and wind resistance. EMT conduit is generally preferred over PVC because it holds its shape better in heat and provides superior structural strength.
How far apart should hoop house hoops be spaced?
Standard hoop spacing is 4 feet on center for most residential hoop houses. In areas with heavy snow loads, reduce spacing to 3 feet for added structural support. For lightweight summer shade structures, 5 to 6 foot spacing is acceptable. The closer the spacing, the stronger the structure but the more materials and cost required. Most plans recommend 4-foot spacing as the best balance between strength and economy for year-round use.
How long does hoop house plastic last?
Standard 6-mil greenhouse polyethylene lasts 3 to 4 years with UV stabilization treatment. Budget 4-mil poly lasts 1 to 2 years. Premium 8-mil woven poly can last 5 to 6 years. SolaWrap and polycarbonate panels last 10 to 15 years or more but cost significantly more upfront. UV degradation is the primary cause of failure, so always use greenhouse-grade poly with UV inhibitors rather than construction-grade plastic sheeting, which can degrade within a single season.
What temperature difference does a hoop house provide?
A single-layer hoop house typically provides 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit of frost protection compared to outdoor temperatures. A double-layer inflated poly setup adds another 5 to 10 degrees. With row covers inside the hoop house, you can gain an additional 4 to 8 degrees for a total of up to 30 degrees of protection. This allows growing cold-hardy crops through winter in USDA zones 5 and above, and extends the season by 4 to 8 weeks in spring and fall.
How do I calculate the plastic covering size for a hoop house?
Treat each hoop as a semicircle: the arc length is pi times the width divided by two, so a 20 foot wide house needs about 31.4 feet of plastic across the bow. Multiply that arc by the length for the roof skin, then add the two end walls, each a half circle of area pi times the radius squared divided by two. For a 20 by 48 foot tunnel the roof is 31.4 times 48, about 1,508 square feet, and the two ends add about 314 square feet. Adding 15 percent for burial trenches, wiggle-wire channel and overhang gives roughly 2,095 square feet, which is what Hoop House Calculator reports.
What is the difference between a hoop house and a heated greenhouse?
A hoop house, also called a high tunnel, is an unheated passive structure: a pipe or conduit frame covered in polyethylene, usually with crops grown directly in the ground soil and ventilation provided by roll-up sides. A greenhouse has a permanent foundation, rigid glazing, a heating system and often forced ventilation and environmental controls. The tunnel extends the season by trapping solar gain; the greenhouse holds a setpoint year round.
How should a hoop house be anchored against wind uplift?
The covering turns the frame into a large sail, so uplift resistance is the critical design case. Hoops are normally slipped over ground posts driven two to three feet into firm soil, or set in post anchors, and tied together with a ridge purlin and side purlins so the frame acts as one unit. Diagonal corner bracing and framed end walls stiffen the tunnel lengthwise, and the poly must be tensioned in a channel so it cannot flap.
Why does a hoop house need roll-up sides or end vents?
Under full sun a sealed tunnel can climb far above outside air temperature within an hour, cooking crops and driving humidity to condensing levels that encourage fungal disease. Roll-up sides ventilate by cross flow near the crop canopy, while gable or end-wall vents let hot air escape at the ridge where it collects. Sizing ventilation openings to a substantial fraction of the sidewall area is what makes passive cooling work without fans.
What is a purlin and how many does a hoop house need?
A purlin is a horizontal member running the length of the tunnel that ties the individual hoops together, so wind or snow load on one bow is shared by the whole frame. Every hoop house needs at least a ridge purlin at the peak. Wider tunnels, or sites with snow load, add one or two purlins on each side partway up the arc, which also stiffens the bows against the inward buckling that causes collapse.
Should a hoop house run north-south or east-west?
Orientation follows the growing season. An east-west run presents the long side of the arc to the low winter sun, maximising light capture for cold-season production. A north-south run gives more even light distribution across the beds through the long days of summer and often lines the roll-up sides up better with prevailing summer breezes for cross ventilation. Site shading from trees or buildings usually outranks either rule.
References
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Reviewed for accuracy by Abdullah, Technical Content Specialist ยท Editorial policy
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