Mortar Calculator
Calculate mortar quantities for brickwork including cement, lime, and sand needs. Get material estimates for Type M, S, N, and O mortar mixes.
Mortar Calculator
Calculator
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Formula: Mortar Volume = Bricks x (Bed Joint Volume + Head Joint Volume); Bricks = Wall Area / (Brick Module Area)
Worked example โ 1,151 bricks | ~8.3 cu ft mortar | ~96 bags premixed (80 lb) | Type N general purpose
Formula
Mortar Volume = Bricks x (Bed Joint Volume + Head Joint Volume); Bricks = Wall Area / (Brick Module Area)
The number of bricks is calculated from the wall area divided by the area of one brick module (brick plus joint). Mortar volume per brick includes horizontal bed joints and vertical head joints. Material quantities are derived from the mortar type mix ratio applied to total mortar volume.
Worked Examples
Example 1: Standard Residential Brick Wall
Problem:Calculate mortar needed for a 20 ft x 8 ft single-wythe brick wall using standard bricks (8 x 2.25 inches) with 3/8 inch joints and Type N mortar. Assume 10% waste.
Solution:Wall area: 20 x 8 = 160 sq ft Brick module: (8 + 0.375)/12 x (2.25 + 0.375)/12 = 0.698 x 0.219 = 0.153 sq ft Bricks/sq ft: 1/0.153 = 6.54 Bricks with waste: ceil(6.54 x 160 x 1.10) = 1,151 bricks Mortar per brick: ~0.0072 cu ft Total mortar: ~8.3 cu ft Type N mix (1:1:6): ~1 bag cement, ~1 bag lime, ~6.2 cu ft sand
Result:1,151 bricks | ~8.3 cu ft mortar | ~96 bags premixed (80 lb) | Type N general purpose
Example 2: Garden Retaining Wall
Problem:A 12 ft x 4 ft retaining wall using Type S mortar with the same brick dimensions and 3/8 inch joints. 15% waste factor.
Solution:Wall area: 12 x 4 = 48 sq ft Bricks/sq ft: 6.54 Bricks with waste: ceil(6.54 x 48 x 1.15) = 361 bricks Mortar volume: ~2.6 cu ft Type S mix (1:0.5:4.5): higher cement content for structural strength Premixed bags: ceil(361/12) = 31 bags
Result:361 bricks | ~2.6 cu ft mortar | 31 bags premixed | Type S for structural retaining
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the different types of mortar and when should each be used?
There are four main types of mortar designated by ASTM C270, each with different compressive strengths and applications. Type M mortar has the highest strength at 2,500 PSI minimum and is used for below-grade applications, foundations, retaining walls, and structures subject to high lateral loads. Type S mortar has 1,800 PSI strength and is the most versatile high-strength option, suitable for below-grade work, areas with high wind or seismic activity, and structural applications. Type N mortar at 750 PSI is the general-purpose mortar used for most above-grade exterior and interior load-bearing walls, and is the most commonly specified type for residential construction. Type O mortar at 350 PSI is the weakest and used only for interior non-load-bearing walls and repair of existing mortar joints.
How much mortar do I need per square foot of brick wall?
The amount of mortar needed per square foot of brick wall depends on brick size, joint thickness, and wall configuration. For standard modular bricks (7-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 3-5/8 inches) with 3/8-inch mortar joints in a single wythe (one brick thick) wall, you need approximately 6.75 to 7 bricks per square foot, and roughly 0.006 to 0.008 cubic feet of mortar per brick. This translates to about 0.04 to 0.055 cubic feet of mortar per square foot of wall. For a double wythe wall, double these quantities. In practical terms, one 80-pound bag of premixed mortar covers about 12 to 14 standard bricks. Always add 10 to 15 percent for waste, as mortar that falls off during application, sticks to tools, or dries in the mixing container cannot be reused.
What is the correct mortar mix ratio for each type?
Mortar mix ratios are specified by volume of Portland cement to hydrated lime to sand. Type M uses a 1:0.25:3.375 ratio (1 part cement, one-quarter part lime, 3-3/8 parts sand), producing the strongest and least workable mix. Type S uses 1:0.5:4.5 (1 part cement, half part lime, 4.5 parts sand), offering good strength with better workability. Type N uses 1:1:6 (equal parts cement and lime, 6 parts sand), providing excellent workability and good water resistance for general use. Type O uses 1:2:9 (1 part cement, 2 parts lime, 9 parts sand), the most workable but weakest mix. The lime improves workability, water retention, and self-healing properties. Sand should be well-graded masonry sand, not sharp concrete sand, and should be damp but not wet for accurate volume measurement.
How do I properly mix and apply mortar for brickwork?
Proper mortar mixing begins with adding about three-quarters of the required water to a clean mixer or mixing tub. Add half the sand, then all the cement and lime, then the remaining sand and water. Mix for 3 to 5 minutes until the mortar reaches a smooth, butter-like consistency that holds its shape on a trowel but is workable enough to spread easily. The mortar should be stiff enough to support a brick but plastic enough to create full, even joints. Apply mortar to the bed joint with a trowel, then butter the head (end) of each brick before pressing it into place. Joints should be completely filled with no voids. Tool the joints when the mortar is thumbprint-firm, typically 20 to 30 minutes after placement. Mortar has a usable life of about 2 to 2.5 hours and should never be retempered with water more than once.
What factors affect mortar joint thickness and spacing?
Standard mortar joint thickness is 3/8 inch (10mm) for most brickwork, but this can vary based on several factors. Building codes typically require joints between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. Thicker joints (1/2 inch) provide more flexibility and better accommodate brick dimensional variations but reduce wall strength and weather resistance. Thinner joints (1/4 inch) are stronger and more weather-resistant but require more precisely sized bricks. Joint profile affects durability as well. Concave and V-shaped joints provide the best weather resistance by compressing the mortar and shedding water. Raked or flush joints look appealing but expose more mortar surface to weathering. Environmental conditions also matter. Hot, dry, or windy weather requires dampening bricks before laying and protecting fresh mortar from rapid drying, which causes cracking and weak bonds.
Why do bag counts from joint volume and from bricks-per-bag disagree?
There are two ways to reach a bag count and they rarely match. One divides the theoretical joint volume, bed plus head joints, by the mixed yield printed on the bag. The other uses the trade rule of so many bricks laid per bag. The rule-of-thumb figure is far more conservative because it absorbs full bedding, furrowing, material dropped off the board, buttering losses and mortar stiffened past use, none of which appear in a geometric joint volume. Mortar Calculator follows the bricks-per-bag convention, so treat it as a purchasing figure and the joint volume as the mortar that ends up in the wall.
What is the difference between mortar, grout and concrete?
All three are cement based but they do different jobs. Mortar is a bedding and bonding material with fine sand only, mixed stiff so it holds a brick in position and bonds to the unit. Grout is a high-slump, fluid mix, sometimes with pea gravel, poured into masonry cores and around reinforcing bars to make the wall act structurally. Concrete has coarse aggregate and is designed for compressive strength as a standalone element. Substituting one for another fails: concrete is too harsh to lay units with, and mortar is too stiff to consolidate in a core.
How does unit size and wythe count change the mortar quantity?
Mortar volume follows the total length of joints, not the wall area alone, so larger units mean fewer joints per square foot and less mortar. A concrete block wall uses substantially less mortar per square foot than the same area in modular brick because a block face covers many times the area of a brick face. Adding a second wythe roughly doubles the bed and head joint volume and also introduces a collar joint, the vertical gap between the two wythes, which must be counted separately if it is filled.
Why should mortar never be stronger than the masonry unit?
Mortar joints are intended to be the sacrificial element in a wall. When the mortar is weaker than the brick, movement, settlement and thermal cycling crack the joint, which can be raked out and repointed. When the mortar is harder than the unit, the same movement instead cracks and spalls the face of the brick itself, which cannot be repaired. This is why soft historic brickwork is repointed with a weak lime-rich Type O or N mix rather than the high-strength Type S or M that modern hard-fired units tolerate.
How does weather change mortar handling and batch planning?
Cement hydration speeds up with heat, so in hot, dry or windy conditions mortar stiffens faster, board life shortens and water is drawn out of the joint by absorptive units before the bond develops. Mix smaller batches, dampen high-suction bricks and shade the mortar board. In cold conditions hydration slows sharply and effectively halts near freezing, so strength gain stalls and fresh work must be protected from frost. Either extreme argues for batching to a shorter working window rather than mixing a large volume at once.
References
Background & Theory
History
Reviewed for accuracy by Abdullah, Technical Content Specialist ยท Editorial policy
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